I always find it amazing how closely our senses of taste and smell are tied to memory. For me, I find a perfect example of this is the 2005 Sauvion Vouvray. I first tasted this wine at Walt Disney World's Epcot theme park in Orlando, FL. For those of you who think this sounds odd, Epcot is a great spot for food and wine nuts--especially at the International Food and Wine Festival held each Fall. I love wandering around trying different foods and wines from the different countries, and this pleasure is greatly amplified during the festival. (More about that in a later post.) Yes, some of the food at Epcot is dumbed-down for less adventurous palates, but if you look you can really find a lot of great stuff.
I tried this wine in the France pavillion at the Chefs de France restaurant. I can still taste the Tarte a la flamme Alsacienne--a crispy piece of flat bread smothered in creme fraiche and topped with bacon and onions. It is unbelievable. The smooth sweetness of this wine matched perfectly with the rich, creamy, bacon laced deliciousness of the Tarte.
This wine is not available in Nashville, so we contacted the distibutor and found a couple of wine shops in (fairly) nearby Knoxville, TN who stock it. On a trip through Knoxville last year, we called ahead to reserve a case and picked it up while we were in town. I decided to open a bottle this afternoon.
Vouvray is a region in France in the Loire valley. It is most famous for its white wines, particulary those made from the Chenin Blanc grape. Like most of Europe, France typically classifies its wines by their region, rather than their varietal. (More on the concept of terrior here.) The 2005 Sauvion Vouvray is delightful. I immediately detect a strong aroma of melons and honey on the nose, followed by a trace of oranges. (It is not really the smell of fresh oranges--more like candied oranges. Think orange marmalade.) There is a "green" smell in the background that I cannot pin down at first. It makes me think of green apples, but sweeter. After the wine has a chance to breathe a little, I finally have it. Do you remember Jolly Rancher candies? Did you ever try the "green apple" Jolly Ranchers? That is exacly what I am smelling in the background. Yum.
With all this talk of honey, marmalade, and candy, you might imagine this wine is sweet--and it is. Not sweet in a cheap, candy wine way--more like the luscious sweetness of overripe fruit. Overripe honeydew is the best image I can produce to describe the taste of this wine. Drinking this wine is like biting into the most perfect honeydew melon you can imagine. It is not overly acidic, it is bursting with melon flavors, and it is rich and sweet. Normally I want sweetness matched with acidity, but the green taste in the background (notice I said honeydew, not cantaloupe) provides the necessary contrast.
This is not an everyday wine. It can be sipped on its own or paired with foods, but care must be taken to choose the right food due to the sweetness of the wine. The bacon, onion, and creme fraiche tarte listed above is a great pairing and can be used as a guide. The sweetness of the wine meets the saltiness of the bacon head-on. I can see this wine standing up to similar salty, savory foods.
Beyond my enjoyment of the taste and smell of this wine, however, is my enjoyment of the memory it evokes. Whenever and wherever you drink wine, drink deeply, and completely savor the moment. Months or years later, the memory of that moment can come alive again, with the popping of a cork.
Friday, September 21, 2007
Friday, August 31, 2007
The wonders of terrior--the difference in Syrah and Shiraz
I like Australian Shiraz, but if your experience with Syrah has been limited to Australian Shiraz, you should really try something from France’s northern Rhone valley. Unlike the southern Cotes du Rhone blends, which rely heavily on grenache/garnache, the wines of the northern Rhone (such as Hermitage) are based on Syrah. In the New World, we are fixated on grape varietal--is it a cabernet or a merlot, a chardonnay or a sauvignon blanc? In the Old World, the focus is on terroir--the region, the land, the actual dirt in which those grapes are grown. If you are not familiar with the concept of terrior, or if you think wine is primarily about the kinds of grapes used, taste an Australian shiraz next to a northern Rhone red. Both may be wonderful wines, but the difference will shock you. The grapes are the same, but the terrior, the soul of the land, is vastly different, and will produce vastly different wines.
With that said, tonight I tried a 2003 Paul Jaboulet Aine “Les Jalets” Crozes Hermitage. I get some strange smells from this wine--smoke, rocks, (wet rocks in particular), moss, cooked black fruits. These are very deep, dark smells, like the ground in a forest late at night after a rain. There is someting in the distant background that reminds me of something I’ve tried before, but I can’t quite place it. (I think it was something Italian, but I’m not sure.) It’s really that wet, mossy stone that permeates. As it opens up a little, I’m starting to get a faint hint of candied walnuts, vanilla, and burnt toast. This is a very aromatic wine. There is something else that is so familiar in the smell, but I just can’t place it. A desperate search of the internet for other tasting notes of this wine, and I found someone who caught it--root beer!!! Good call. That is exactly what I am smelling. You never know what you will find in a wine.
Now, to the tasting. This is a fascinating wine. To be honest, I did not have high hopes for this wine. A moderately priced Hermitage (about $20) from a big negociant could go either way, but I thought I would give it a try. I’m glad I did. This wine has a lot going on in it. I’ve described the nose above, but the taste and finish are just as complex. I’m getting a lot of cherries. Not really fresh cherries or cooked cherries, more like candied cherries--like a cherry liqueur or cherry cordial. It is slightly tart but incredibly smooth, and the tannins are just strong enough to counter that smoothness. I love the balance of this wine. The acidity, tannins, fruit, wood--everything works so well together. It may sound odd to speak of a “bold balance”, but that is all I can think of to describe this wine. I am really impressed.
I have finally figured out what this wine reminds me of. It really makes me think of a 2003 Cesari Amarone, but it is much better balanced. Don’t get me wrong, the Cesari was good (especially with food), but it was just a little too smooth. It needed to be paired with the right food to bring out its depth. The Jaboulet stands on its own. It is begging me to try another glass. I guess I will have to comply. Yum!!!
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
With that said, tonight I tried a 2003 Paul Jaboulet Aine “Les Jalets” Crozes Hermitage. I get some strange smells from this wine--smoke, rocks, (wet rocks in particular), moss, cooked black fruits. These are very deep, dark smells, like the ground in a forest late at night after a rain. There is someting in the distant background that reminds me of something I’ve tried before, but I can’t quite place it. (I think it was something Italian, but I’m not sure.) It’s really that wet, mossy stone that permeates. As it opens up a little, I’m starting to get a faint hint of candied walnuts, vanilla, and burnt toast. This is a very aromatic wine. There is something else that is so familiar in the smell, but I just can’t place it. A desperate search of the internet for other tasting notes of this wine, and I found someone who caught it--root beer!!! Good call. That is exactly what I am smelling. You never know what you will find in a wine.
Now, to the tasting. This is a fascinating wine. To be honest, I did not have high hopes for this wine. A moderately priced Hermitage (about $20) from a big negociant could go either way, but I thought I would give it a try. I’m glad I did. This wine has a lot going on in it. I’ve described the nose above, but the taste and finish are just as complex. I’m getting a lot of cherries. Not really fresh cherries or cooked cherries, more like candied cherries--like a cherry liqueur or cherry cordial. It is slightly tart but incredibly smooth, and the tannins are just strong enough to counter that smoothness. I love the balance of this wine. The acidity, tannins, fruit, wood--everything works so well together. It may sound odd to speak of a “bold balance”, but that is all I can think of to describe this wine. I am really impressed.
I have finally figured out what this wine reminds me of. It really makes me think of a 2003 Cesari Amarone, but it is much better balanced. Don’t get me wrong, the Cesari was good (especially with food), but it was just a little too smooth. It needed to be paired with the right food to bring out its depth. The Jaboulet stands on its own. It is begging me to try another glass. I guess I will have to comply. Yum!!!
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Watermark
Nashville is a great city to live in, especially if you have a connection to downtown. As with so many cities, much of the downtown lifestyle deteriorated in the 70’s and 80’s with the growth of the suburbs. Thankfully due to the music industry and its accompanying tourism, our downtown never completely died. Throughout the 90’s and especially over the past 10 years, Nashville has made great progress in revitalizing its urban core. Whether directly downtown or on the outskirts (East Nashville, SoBro, Midtown), a return to urban life is the new trend in Nashville. A great example of this is an area just west of downtown called “the Gulch.” I remember the Gulch of the 90’s, at the intersection of 12th Ave and 11th Industrial (as it was called at the time). It was a scary wasteland of warehouses and industrial supply stores. Now it is home to some of the best new restaurants in Nashville. Among these, perhaps the most praised are Radius 10 and Watermark. I tried Radius 10 for lunch a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed. Unfortunately, wine was not an option that day, because the wine list looked interesting. Last night, however, I finally tried Watermark, and was blown away. It is a great restaurant, with expertly crafted food and an impressive wine list. The staff is very knowledgeable, and offered excellent wine pairing recommendations. Here is what we sampled:
Appetizers:
stone ground grit soufflé with bonnie blue farm goat cheese and apple smoked bacon butter sauce -- Wow! This was great. The soufflé was wonderfully creamy inside with a crisp top, giving a nice textural contrast, but the bacon butter sauce really made this dish.
fried green tomatoes with charred corn, sherried corn cream, and butter poached lobster -- This was also very good. The richness of the lobster contrasted beautifully with the tart greenness of the tomatoes. There was a delicate background of fennel, which really tied everything together.
The appetizers were paired with a 2004 Zind-Humbrecht "Zind". This is a white blend of Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc from Alsace. It was amazing. Alsace often gives you the best of France and Germany combined, and this wine was no exception. There was a bit of an earthy nuttiness on the nose, but the main aroma was apricots. The taste was crisp and floral, with a bit more sweetness than I had anticipated. This was cut nicely by the acidity. It reminded me of a cross between a Vouvray and a Beaumes de Venise, although not as sweet and more acidic. It paired wonderfully with the grit soufflé and fried green tomatoes.
Main Course 1:
sautéed hawaiian walu with lemon risotto, asparagus and ginger fumet--This was a wonderful combination of flavors. I did not like the sound of lemon risotto, but I decided to trust the chef. I am glad I did. The firm texture of the walu, the acidity and creaminess of the lemon risotto, and the slight bitterness of the ginger fumet (broth) blended well. I could have done without the asparagus, but it did add a nice crunchy texture.
Where this dish really shined was with the wine pairing, a 2006 Bridlewood Viognier. I love Viognier. I cannot believe it has not achieved the exposure of Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Thankfully that is changing, and more people are learning about this grape. The aroma of Viognier is often described as peaches. With this wine, I immediately detected peaches--specifically canned peaches. Imagine going to the grocery store and buying a can of “peach halves in heavy syrup” That is the smell of this wine--it was beautiful. It had a smooth, not overly acidic taste, and went perfectly with the walu.
Main Course 2:
roasted rack of lamb with ratatouille and basil-mint pesto -- I am very picky about lamb. I love it and try to eat it often, but I am very leery of ordering it in restaurants. It almost never seems to be prepared “right”. It is often overdone and either horribly over- or under seasoned. I was pleasantly surprised with Watermark’s lamb. It was incredible juicy. I mean unbelievably juicy. The basil-mint pesto was a nice touch--just enough herbal “bite” to cut the flavor of the lamb.
With the lamb we had a Burgundy, a 2004 Domaine Vincent Girardin "Cuvee Saint-Vincent". I was really impressed with this wine. It smell was full of cherries--ripe cherries and a little bit of cooked cherries. Behind this was a background of earthiness--a hint of that “barnyard” smell associated with Burgundy. (If you haven’t heard wine described as smelling “barnyardy” before, I know it sounds disgusting, but trust me, it’s a good thing!) It was light bodied without being watery and soft without being weak. It was just enough to go with the lamb without overpowering it.
Desert:
rocky road terrine with homemade marshmallows,toasted pecans and bitter chocolate ganache
valrhona chocolate fondue cake with caramel and cocoa nibs
Okay, the deserts were both great and unbelievably rich, but I have to talk about the desert wines:
First we had a Pedro Ximinez Sherry, the Alvear PX Solera 1927. This was the epitome of rich. It smelled like fresh baked oatmeal cookies--an overwhelming smell of cooked raisins with a hint of cinnamon. Behind this was the unmistakable green apple aroma of flor--the wonderful cousin of yeast that makes wine become sherry.
Second we had what was probably the most amazing wine of the evening, a 1985 Smith-Woodhouse Vintage Port. -- Wow. Wow. Wow. I can’t say “wow” enough. This wine was outstanding. There was a lot going on on the nose. It had the rich, creamy aroma of a tawny, without loosing the fruit of a ruby port. The taste was delicious. Sometimes the aging process can overpower a wine’s fruit with rich vanillas and nuttiness, This was not a problem with this wine. Age had made it luscious, without destroying the delicacy of the wine itself. It was a perfect merger of fruit and time. I want another glass!
The verdict? Watermark is a great restaurant -- The food is great. The wine is great. The atmosphere is great. The staff is great. What more can I say? If you are ever in Nashville, give it a try. I don’t think you will be disappointed.
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Appetizers:
stone ground grit soufflé with bonnie blue farm goat cheese and apple smoked bacon butter sauce -- Wow! This was great. The soufflé was wonderfully creamy inside with a crisp top, giving a nice textural contrast, but the bacon butter sauce really made this dish.
fried green tomatoes with charred corn, sherried corn cream, and butter poached lobster -- This was also very good. The richness of the lobster contrasted beautifully with the tart greenness of the tomatoes. There was a delicate background of fennel, which really tied everything together.
The appetizers were paired with a 2004 Zind-Humbrecht "Zind". This is a white blend of Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc from Alsace. It was amazing. Alsace often gives you the best of France and Germany combined, and this wine was no exception. There was a bit of an earthy nuttiness on the nose, but the main aroma was apricots. The taste was crisp and floral, with a bit more sweetness than I had anticipated. This was cut nicely by the acidity. It reminded me of a cross between a Vouvray and a Beaumes de Venise, although not as sweet and more acidic. It paired wonderfully with the grit soufflé and fried green tomatoes.
Main Course 1:
sautéed hawaiian walu with lemon risotto, asparagus and ginger fumet--This was a wonderful combination of flavors. I did not like the sound of lemon risotto, but I decided to trust the chef. I am glad I did. The firm texture of the walu, the acidity and creaminess of the lemon risotto, and the slight bitterness of the ginger fumet (broth) blended well. I could have done without the asparagus, but it did add a nice crunchy texture.
Where this dish really shined was with the wine pairing, a 2006 Bridlewood Viognier. I love Viognier. I cannot believe it has not achieved the exposure of Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Thankfully that is changing, and more people are learning about this grape. The aroma of Viognier is often described as peaches. With this wine, I immediately detected peaches--specifically canned peaches. Imagine going to the grocery store and buying a can of “peach halves in heavy syrup” That is the smell of this wine--it was beautiful. It had a smooth, not overly acidic taste, and went perfectly with the walu.
Main Course 2:
roasted rack of lamb with ratatouille and basil-mint pesto -- I am very picky about lamb. I love it and try to eat it often, but I am very leery of ordering it in restaurants. It almost never seems to be prepared “right”. It is often overdone and either horribly over- or under seasoned. I was pleasantly surprised with Watermark’s lamb. It was incredible juicy. I mean unbelievably juicy. The basil-mint pesto was a nice touch--just enough herbal “bite” to cut the flavor of the lamb.
With the lamb we had a Burgundy, a 2004 Domaine Vincent Girardin "Cuvee Saint-Vincent". I was really impressed with this wine. It smell was full of cherries--ripe cherries and a little bit of cooked cherries. Behind this was a background of earthiness--a hint of that “barnyard” smell associated with Burgundy. (If you haven’t heard wine described as smelling “barnyardy” before, I know it sounds disgusting, but trust me, it’s a good thing!) It was light bodied without being watery and soft without being weak. It was just enough to go with the lamb without overpowering it.
Desert:
rocky road terrine with homemade marshmallows,toasted pecans and bitter chocolate ganache
valrhona chocolate fondue cake with caramel and cocoa nibs
Okay, the deserts were both great and unbelievably rich, but I have to talk about the desert wines:
First we had a Pedro Ximinez Sherry, the Alvear PX Solera 1927. This was the epitome of rich. It smelled like fresh baked oatmeal cookies--an overwhelming smell of cooked raisins with a hint of cinnamon. Behind this was the unmistakable green apple aroma of flor--the wonderful cousin of yeast that makes wine become sherry.
Second we had what was probably the most amazing wine of the evening, a 1985 Smith-Woodhouse Vintage Port. -- Wow. Wow. Wow. I can’t say “wow” enough. This wine was outstanding. There was a lot going on on the nose. It had the rich, creamy aroma of a tawny, without loosing the fruit of a ruby port. The taste was delicious. Sometimes the aging process can overpower a wine’s fruit with rich vanillas and nuttiness, This was not a problem with this wine. Age had made it luscious, without destroying the delicacy of the wine itself. It was a perfect merger of fruit and time. I want another glass!
The verdict? Watermark is a great restaurant -- The food is great. The wine is great. The atmosphere is great. The staff is great. What more can I say? If you are ever in Nashville, give it a try. I don’t think you will be disappointed.
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Saturday, August 25, 2007
A lot more wine, a French rose, and a new treat
I considered not commenting on the French rose I just tried, but today's other events make it worthy of a post. I noticed that we had been running low on white wines, so I decided to restock. I guess "running low" is a relative term, but any reason to buy more wine is a good reason. I will be posting on a lot of these in the near future. Based on the success of yesterday's Pinot Grigio della Venezie, I got several more Italian whites (mostly Pinots form different regions) and a couple of Viogniers. I also got a few French whites, particularly white Bordeaux, and a couple of red Cotes-du-Rhones, (one of which was a Crozes-Hermitage.)
Speaking of Cotes-du-Rhone, I tried I Cotes-du-Rhone rose tonight--a 2006 Paul Jaboulet Aine Parallele 45. It was not bad. Nothing to write home about, but not bad on a summer night. Many people automatically shun roses based on "yuppie kool aid" impressions of white zinfandel (which is not actually evil--I don't like it at all, but once you accept it for what it is, you realize that it has its place, especially as a transition for new wine drinkers.) Roses do not have to be like that. In fact, roses should bridge the gap between whites and reds. Ideally, they sould have the crisp fruitiness of a white with a little more body, beginning to lean in the direction of a red. I have tried several French and Spanish roses, and many of them have bridged this gap well, though in different ways. Spanish roses tend to be more tart and acidic, while French roses tend to be less acidic and a little more viscous (like a chardonay or viognier.) Many of the Spanish roses I have tried have been based on Garnache/Grenache, and I thought a Cotes-du-Rhone rose would be more similar to them. In fact, I found the Parallele 45 much more similar to the other French roses I have tried. I immediately found strawberries on the nose, with a touch of a dairy smell--think strawberry yogurt. After a while I realized the other, more elusive aroma was definately kiwifruit--very interesting when paired with the strawberry yogurt. The body was less crisp and more viscous than I expected, and the finish reminded me of oranges. It was a decent wine on its own, but it really shone forth when paired with leftover Chinese food (Mongolian shrimp and Dan Dan noodles.) It achieved a burst of fruitiness in the midpalate that I had not noticed when it was alone. We often forget that as good as wine can be on its own, it is designed to go with food. Sometimes a wine that blends into the background can jump to the forefront when tasted with food. Although this wine was not exceptional, it was good--especially with the leftovers from Pei Wei.
On a final note, I have recently had a growing interest in tequila. This is a drink which is so often relagated to the gutter of the beverage world, but really has potential. The difference in "good" tequila and "bad" tequila can be quite amazing (and a bit overwhelming), and many people have only experienced bad tequila. On a whim, I asked my favorite local wineshop for a couple of tequila suggestions. On their recomendation, tonight I tried two tequilas--Don Julio blanco and Sauza "Hornitos" reposado. For those of you not familiar with tequila distictions, blanco or silver is clear and unaged (it looks like vodka), joven or gold is slightly aged or has added food coloring (yuck), reposado is aged in wood and is natually caramel colored, and anejo is extensively aged. Based on my uneducated first impression of the two, I liked the Sauza Hornitos reposado much better. The blanco was very...I want to say "fruit forward," but I guess I should say "agave forward." It was sharp and hot. It reminded me of a flavored vodka. It was not "bad"--no off flavors or artificial, chemically finish, but it was a little too young and harsh for my tastes. On the other hand, I really enjoyed the reposado. I had tried a different reposado before and it was very harsh, but the Sauza was great. It was very herbal on the nose, floral and fruity on the finish, and incredibly smooth. This is a great drink for sipping. I still know very little about tequila, but I am impressed with the Sauza Hornitos reposado. For $20 (a steal for a reposado), it was a great suggestion--hats off once again to my local wineshop, which has seldom failed me. Who knew tequila could be this complex?
So that was my evening--a trip to the wineshop and lots of new wines to try, a decent if not stellar Cotes-du-Rhone rose, and a nice surprise in the Sauza "Hornitos" reposado tequila. Now, its off to tackle those new wines...
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Speaking of Cotes-du-Rhone, I tried I Cotes-du-Rhone rose tonight--a 2006 Paul Jaboulet Aine Parallele 45. It was not bad. Nothing to write home about, but not bad on a summer night. Many people automatically shun roses based on "yuppie kool aid" impressions of white zinfandel (which is not actually evil--I don't like it at all, but once you accept it for what it is, you realize that it has its place, especially as a transition for new wine drinkers.) Roses do not have to be like that. In fact, roses should bridge the gap between whites and reds. Ideally, they sould have the crisp fruitiness of a white with a little more body, beginning to lean in the direction of a red. I have tried several French and Spanish roses, and many of them have bridged this gap well, though in different ways. Spanish roses tend to be more tart and acidic, while French roses tend to be less acidic and a little more viscous (like a chardonay or viognier.) Many of the Spanish roses I have tried have been based on Garnache/Grenache, and I thought a Cotes-du-Rhone rose would be more similar to them. In fact, I found the Parallele 45 much more similar to the other French roses I have tried. I immediately found strawberries on the nose, with a touch of a dairy smell--think strawberry yogurt. After a while I realized the other, more elusive aroma was definately kiwifruit--very interesting when paired with the strawberry yogurt. The body was less crisp and more viscous than I expected, and the finish reminded me of oranges. It was a decent wine on its own, but it really shone forth when paired with leftover Chinese food (Mongolian shrimp and Dan Dan noodles.) It achieved a burst of fruitiness in the midpalate that I had not noticed when it was alone. We often forget that as good as wine can be on its own, it is designed to go with food. Sometimes a wine that blends into the background can jump to the forefront when tasted with food. Although this wine was not exceptional, it was good--especially with the leftovers from Pei Wei.
On a final note, I have recently had a growing interest in tequila. This is a drink which is so often relagated to the gutter of the beverage world, but really has potential. The difference in "good" tequila and "bad" tequila can be quite amazing (and a bit overwhelming), and many people have only experienced bad tequila. On a whim, I asked my favorite local wineshop for a couple of tequila suggestions. On their recomendation, tonight I tried two tequilas--Don Julio blanco and Sauza "Hornitos" reposado. For those of you not familiar with tequila distictions, blanco or silver is clear and unaged (it looks like vodka), joven or gold is slightly aged or has added food coloring (yuck), reposado is aged in wood and is natually caramel colored, and anejo is extensively aged. Based on my uneducated first impression of the two, I liked the Sauza Hornitos reposado much better. The blanco was very...I want to say "fruit forward," but I guess I should say "agave forward." It was sharp and hot. It reminded me of a flavored vodka. It was not "bad"--no off flavors or artificial, chemically finish, but it was a little too young and harsh for my tastes. On the other hand, I really enjoyed the reposado. I had tried a different reposado before and it was very harsh, but the Sauza was great. It was very herbal on the nose, floral and fruity on the finish, and incredibly smooth. This is a great drink for sipping. I still know very little about tequila, but I am impressed with the Sauza Hornitos reposado. For $20 (a steal for a reposado), it was a great suggestion--hats off once again to my local wineshop, which has seldom failed me. Who knew tequila could be this complex?
So that was my evening--a trip to the wineshop and lots of new wines to try, a decent if not stellar Cotes-du-Rhone rose, and a nice surprise in the Sauza "Hornitos" reposado tequila. Now, its off to tackle those new wines...
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Friday, August 24, 2007
A bit of a surprise
Wine is not simply a drink, it is an experience. It is a combination of the body of the grapes, the soul of the terroir (the qualities of the soil, land, and region where the grapes grew), the whims of the weather, the vision of the winemaker, the expectations of the drinker, and the fullness of the moment when you drink it. With such in mind, I have tried for months to replicate my experience with the Pasqua Terre del Sol Bianco di Custoza. After a week on an Italian ship cruising the Caribbean, drinking this wine with every meal, I wanted to find something to rekindle those memories. That is why, when with surprise I found two wines from Pasqua, I had to try them. I will take a moment to explain the one most similar to the Bianco di Custoza.
Sometimes wine can surprise you. I thought I knew Pinot Grigio, but the Pasqua Vigneti del Sol Pinot Grigio Venezie 2006 was much more complex than I expected. It also held much more than I detected on my first taste. After a couple of tries, here is what I found. The first aroma that hits you is sour, like lemons. I also get a lot of apple and pear on the nose, with hints of green, unripe fruit. The is also a slight, muted floral note, which brings to mind the blossoms of a fruit tree in early spring--not quite yet coming to the forefront, but there to notice none the less. Finally, the nose has an almost imperceptible yeasty, alcoholic smell, which can only be compared to...beer. I noticed this once in a Portuguese Vinho Verde. Don't get me wrong, this wine does not openly smell like beer, but there are suggestions of that "beer" aroma in the distant background--very interesting. The taste is lemony citrus, but not overly acidic--like a mellow but unsweetened glass of homemade lemonade. The finish is harder to pin down. At first I want to continue the lemon theme and say it is sour, but it is really more bitter. It is more like lemon pith or grapefruit.
From the description I have given, you might at first think this is a horrible wine--sour aroma with a background of beer, unsweetened lemonade taste, and bitter finish. I'll have to admit, this was my first impression, but this wine (like so many) "grew" on me. I have had this experience before with Italian whites (like the Bianco di Custoza from Pasqua). In fact, in different ways I have found this with several European white wines. It may simply be that our American palates have grown used to a few distinct styles of white, and that the old world styles take a little getting used to. It may also be that some wines need a little more time than others to breathe and realize their full potential in the glass. Either way, in the end it is well worth the effort. I tried this wine one evening, and actually considered throwing it out. Instead, I sealed it closed, put it back in the chiller, and tried it the next day. What a difference! Where I had only seen blatant, sharp aromas and flavors the first day, I found the complexity described above on the second day. This demonstrates what I have found so many times: if you don't like a wine at first, seal it and try it the next day. You may be surprised what can happen when wine has time to breath and your palate has time to adjust to new flavors.
Did I replicate the experience I had on the ship? Not exactly. But did I grow to like this wine? Well, I think an empty bottle can answer that question...
Salute, amici!!!
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Sometimes wine can surprise you. I thought I knew Pinot Grigio, but the Pasqua Vigneti del Sol Pinot Grigio Venezie 2006 was much more complex than I expected. It also held much more than I detected on my first taste. After a couple of tries, here is what I found. The first aroma that hits you is sour, like lemons. I also get a lot of apple and pear on the nose, with hints of green, unripe fruit. The is also a slight, muted floral note, which brings to mind the blossoms of a fruit tree in early spring--not quite yet coming to the forefront, but there to notice none the less. Finally, the nose has an almost imperceptible yeasty, alcoholic smell, which can only be compared to...beer. I noticed this once in a Portuguese Vinho Verde. Don't get me wrong, this wine does not openly smell like beer, but there are suggestions of that "beer" aroma in the distant background--very interesting. The taste is lemony citrus, but not overly acidic--like a mellow but unsweetened glass of homemade lemonade. The finish is harder to pin down. At first I want to continue the lemon theme and say it is sour, but it is really more bitter. It is more like lemon pith or grapefruit.
From the description I have given, you might at first think this is a horrible wine--sour aroma with a background of beer, unsweetened lemonade taste, and bitter finish. I'll have to admit, this was my first impression, but this wine (like so many) "grew" on me. I have had this experience before with Italian whites (like the Bianco di Custoza from Pasqua). In fact, in different ways I have found this with several European white wines. It may simply be that our American palates have grown used to a few distinct styles of white, and that the old world styles take a little getting used to. It may also be that some wines need a little more time than others to breathe and realize their full potential in the glass. Either way, in the end it is well worth the effort. I tried this wine one evening, and actually considered throwing it out. Instead, I sealed it closed, put it back in the chiller, and tried it the next day. What a difference! Where I had only seen blatant, sharp aromas and flavors the first day, I found the complexity described above on the second day. This demonstrates what I have found so many times: if you don't like a wine at first, seal it and try it the next day. You may be surprised what can happen when wine has time to breath and your palate has time to adjust to new flavors.
Did I replicate the experience I had on the ship? Not exactly. But did I grow to like this wine? Well, I think an empty bottle can answer that question...
Salute, amici!!!
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Sunday, August 19, 2007
In praise of Rioja
I cannot begin this blog without singing the praises of Rioja. My favorite wines are Spanish reds. In particular, I love Old World reds from Spain's Rioja region. Rioja's classification system of Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva permit the wine drinker to see firsthand the development of a wine through the aging process. Almost any Old World style Rioja (characterized by that earthy "Rioja smell" of cooked cherries, vanilla, green herbs, leather, etc.) is a treat. These wines are primarily made from Tempranillo, one of the most versitile and unknown grapes in production today. In addition to the grape, the true taste of Rioja comes from the aging process. Aging can be done in French or American oak. To my palate, American oak produces a more rich, traditional taste.
Wines labeled "Crianza" are aged at least one year in oak and one year in bottle. "Reserva" signifies at least one year in oak and two in bottle. "Gran Reserva", the height of Rioja, denotes at least two years in oak and three in bottle. Because of Rioja's strict aging guidelines, you have some idea what you are getting when you buy a bottle of its wine. This is in no way to suggest that Gran Reservas are "better" than Reservas, or that Crianzas are simple wines. All three will be more similar to each other than they would be to a young, fruity New World style red (which might, at first, seem more familiar to an American wine drinker.) As a wine ages, its fruitiness mellows, and the rich flavors of the oak develop. Rather than being blatantly "fruit forward," Old World style Rioja's tend to be more deep and complex. You will still find fruit flavors, but they will have developed into more cooked or stewed fruit flavors--especially cooked cherries. The extent of the wine's aging will determine the extent of this transformation. Crianzas will hold more fruit, while Gran Reservas will be amazingly smooth and complex, with Reservas falling somewhere in the middle. Try two or three styles from the same "bodega," or estate--for example, try a crianza and a reserva from El Coto or Vina Salceda. Another great contrast is a reserva and a gran reserva from Faustino (although I don't like their crianza), and these can be found in wineshops all over the US.
I've saved the best for last--the price. I went looking for some older California Cab's a little while back, and had forgotten how expensive they can get. With Rioja's, in contrast, you can find gran reservas from the mid 1990's for $30, and early 2000's reservas for less than $20. You can even find younger crianzas and New World Rioja's (New World usually suggests younger, more fruit-forward wines which often do not bear the traditional aging labels) for $10 or less. Yes--$10 or less!!! These wines deliver so far beyond their price point, it is astounding. It never ceases to amaze me when I open a $10-$15 bottle I have never seen before and find a world-class wine.
If you want to have some fun the next time you go to your local wineshop, find a $20 reserva and its $12 crianza counterpart, and then buy the cheapest unknown Rioja (under $10) you can find. Try them all. As always, write down what you smell and taste. Try to notice the evolution of the favors as the wines age. Odds are, you will like at least one style, probably all three--and you will have done it all for about $40 or less.
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Wines labeled "Crianza" are aged at least one year in oak and one year in bottle. "Reserva" signifies at least one year in oak and two in bottle. "Gran Reserva", the height of Rioja, denotes at least two years in oak and three in bottle. Because of Rioja's strict aging guidelines, you have some idea what you are getting when you buy a bottle of its wine. This is in no way to suggest that Gran Reservas are "better" than Reservas, or that Crianzas are simple wines. All three will be more similar to each other than they would be to a young, fruity New World style red (which might, at first, seem more familiar to an American wine drinker.) As a wine ages, its fruitiness mellows, and the rich flavors of the oak develop. Rather than being blatantly "fruit forward," Old World style Rioja's tend to be more deep and complex. You will still find fruit flavors, but they will have developed into more cooked or stewed fruit flavors--especially cooked cherries. The extent of the wine's aging will determine the extent of this transformation. Crianzas will hold more fruit, while Gran Reservas will be amazingly smooth and complex, with Reservas falling somewhere in the middle. Try two or three styles from the same "bodega," or estate--for example, try a crianza and a reserva from El Coto or Vina Salceda. Another great contrast is a reserva and a gran reserva from Faustino (although I don't like their crianza), and these can be found in wineshops all over the US.
I've saved the best for last--the price. I went looking for some older California Cab's a little while back, and had forgotten how expensive they can get. With Rioja's, in contrast, you can find gran reservas from the mid 1990's for $30, and early 2000's reservas for less than $20. You can even find younger crianzas and New World Rioja's (New World usually suggests younger, more fruit-forward wines which often do not bear the traditional aging labels) for $10 or less. Yes--$10 or less!!! These wines deliver so far beyond their price point, it is astounding. It never ceases to amaze me when I open a $10-$15 bottle I have never seen before and find a world-class wine.
If you want to have some fun the next time you go to your local wineshop, find a $20 reserva and its $12 crianza counterpart, and then buy the cheapest unknown Rioja (under $10) you can find. Try them all. As always, write down what you smell and taste. Try to notice the evolution of the favors as the wines age. Odds are, you will like at least one style, probably all three--and you will have done it all for about $40 or less.
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Friday, August 17, 2007
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
Friends,
Rojo, The Fretted Zither, is finally here. I have debated setting up a blog for several months, and I have finally decided to take the plunge. As those of you who know me are (I'm sure painfully) aware, I love wine. I am a self-confessed wine fanatic. I in no way claim to be an expert on wine, but I am wholeheartedly a wine enthusiast. The purpose of this blog is to share my wine tasting experiences with my friends, and whoever else happens upon this page. In 2006 I took a class on Spanish Wines at the EPCOT International Food and Wine Festival from Master of Wine and Master Sommelier Doug Frost. He autographed His book, "Wines from Spain" for me with the line which will be a motto for this blog: "Life's too bad to drink short wine."
I concur.
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
Rojo, The Fretted Zither, is finally here. I have debated setting up a blog for several months, and I have finally decided to take the plunge. As those of you who know me are (I'm sure painfully) aware, I love wine. I am a self-confessed wine fanatic. I in no way claim to be an expert on wine, but I am wholeheartedly a wine enthusiast. The purpose of this blog is to share my wine tasting experiences with my friends, and whoever else happens upon this page. In 2006 I took a class on Spanish Wines at the EPCOT International Food and Wine Festival from Master of Wine and Master Sommelier Doug Frost. He autographed His book, "Wines from Spain" for me with the line which will be a motto for this blog: "Life's too bad to drink short wine."
I concur.
Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville
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