In praise of Rioja

I cannot begin this blog without singing the praises of Rioja. My favorite wines are Spanish reds. In particular, I love Old World reds from Spain's Rioja region. Rioja's classification system of Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva permit the wine drinker to see firsthand the development of a wine through the aging process. Almost any Old World style Rioja (characterized by that earthy "Rioja smell" of cooked cherries, vanilla, green herbs, leather, etc.) is a treat. These wines are primarily made from Tempranillo, one of the most versitile and unknown grapes in production today. In addition to the grape, the true taste of Rioja comes from the aging process. Aging can be done in French or American oak. To my palate, American oak produces a more rich, traditional taste.

Wines labeled "Crianza" are aged at least one year in oak and one year in bottle. "Reserva" signifies at least one year in oak and two in bottle. "Gran Reserva", the height of Rioja, denotes at least two years in oak and three in bottle. Because of Rioja's strict aging guidelines, you have some idea what you are getting when you buy a bottle of its wine. This is in no way to suggest that Gran Reservas are "better" than Reservas, or that Crianzas are simple wines. All three will be more similar to each other than they would be to a young, fruity New World style red (which might, at first, seem more familiar to an American wine drinker.) As a wine ages, its fruitiness mellows, and the rich flavors of the oak develop. Rather than being blatantly "fruit forward," Old World style Rioja's tend to be more deep and complex. You will still find fruit flavors, but they will have developed into more cooked or stewed fruit flavors--especially cooked cherries. The extent of the wine's aging will determine the extent of this transformation. Crianzas will hold more fruit, while Gran Reservas will be amazingly smooth and complex, with Reservas falling somewhere in the middle. Try two or three styles from the same "bodega," or estate--for example, try a crianza and a reserva from El Coto or Vina Salceda. Another great contrast is a reserva and a gran reserva from Faustino (although I don't like their crianza), and these can be found in wineshops all over the US.

I've saved the best for last--the price. I went looking for some older California Cab's a little while back, and had forgotten how expensive they can get. With Rioja's, in contrast, you can find gran reservas from the mid 1990's for $30, and early 2000's reservas for less than $20. You can even find younger crianzas and New World Rioja's (New World usually suggests younger, more fruit-forward wines which often do not bear the traditional aging labels) for $10 or less. Yes--$10 or less!!! These wines deliver so far beyond their price point, it is astounding. It never ceases to amaze me when I open a $10-$15 bottle I have never seen before and find a world-class wine.

If you want to have some fun the next time you go to your local wineshop, find a $20 reserva and its $12 crianza counterpart, and then buy the cheapest unknown Rioja (under $10) you can find. Try them all. As always, write down what you smell and taste. Try to notice the evolution of the favors as the wines age. Odds are, you will like at least one style, probably all three--and you will have done it all for about $40 or less.

Rojo, The Fretted Zither
...a wine blog from East Nashville